Ala Thel Dala: Sri Lankan Tempered Potatoes

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 1 pound small yellow or Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed
• 1 small yellow onion (about 5 ounces), thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral vegetable oil
• 8–10 fresh or frozen curry leaves, thawed if frozen and thoroughly dried
• 1 serrano chile, slit lengthwise; remove seeds for less heat
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or less to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, then adjust after tasting
• 1 tablespoon finely crushed Maldive fish, optional; contains fish
• Water for boiling the potatoes

Method

1. Put the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer until a knife reaches the center of the largest potato without a hard stop. Drain. When cool enough to handle, peel if desired and cut into roughly 1-inch chunks. Let surface moisture steam away.
2. Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the dried curry leaves carefully, then the onion and serrano. Cook, stirring, until the onion softens and develops golden edges; reduce the heat if it darkens before softening.
3. Lower the heat. Stir in red pepper flakes, turmeric, black pepper, salt and optional Maldive fish. Stir just until fragrant, keeping the powdered spices from scorching.
4. Add the potatoes and fold through the onion mixture with a broad spatula. Cook gently, turning occasionally, until hot throughout and coated with the seasonings. Let a few edges color, but stop before the onions burn. Taste and adjust salt.
5. Serve warm with rice and parippu or chicken curry. Transfer leftovers to a shallow container and refrigerate promptly.