Parippu: Sri Lankan red lentil curry

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 1 cup dried split red lentils (masoor dal), picked over and rinsed
• 1 1/2 cups water, plus more hot water as needed
• 3/4 cup unsweetened full-fat canned coconut milk, stirred smooth
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped, divided in half
• 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, divided
• 1 small green chile, slit lengthwise; omit for less heat
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon Sri Lankan unroasted curry powder; optional
• 1/8 teaspoon fenugreek seeds; optional
• 10 fresh or frozen curry leaves, rinsed and dried, divided
• One 2-inch piece pandan leaf, rinsed; optional
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1 tablespoon coconut oil or neutral oil
• 1/2 teaspoon brown or black mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes; optional

Method

1. Put the lentils and measured water in a medium saucepan. Soak for 20 minutes while preparing the remaining ingredients; retain this water. Add half the onion, half the garlic, the green chile, turmeric, curry powder, fenugreek, half the curry leaves, pandan and salt.
2. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover with the lid slightly ajar and reduce the heat. Cook until the lentils crush easily and have no firm center. Check occasionally: if liquid disappears before they soften, add hot water a few tablespoons at a time. Lower the heat if foam climbs the pan.
3. Stir in the coconut milk. Simmer gently until the curry is creamy and spoonable. Stir enough to prevent sticking without beating the lentils into a paste. Add a little hot water if it becomes too thick.
4. For the tempering, heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and cover loosely with a splatter screen as they pop. Add the remaining onion, garlic and dry curry leaves; cook, stirring, until the onion is golden. Reduce the heat, add the pepper flakes, and stir briefly without letting them blacken.
5. Fold the tempering into the lentils. Remove the pandan and whole green chile if desired; adjust salt. Serve with rice, roti or chicken curry.