Sri Lankan chicken curry with roasted spices

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 2 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed; keep thighs whole
• 2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral oil
• 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
• 10 fresh or frozen curry leaves, rinsed and dried
• One 2-inch cinnamon stick
• 2 tablespoons Sri Lankan roasted curry powder
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika (not smoked)
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne or other pure hot red chile powder; reduce for less heat
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 medium Roma tomatoes, finely chopped
• 1 green serrano chile, slit; optional
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 cup unsweetened full-fat canned coconut milk, stirred smooth
• 1/2 cup water, plus more as needed
• 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar; optional, to balance the sauce

Method

1. Prepare the onion, garlic, ginger and tomatoes before handling raw chicken. Do not rinse the chicken. Keep its board and utensils separate from ready-to-eat food, then wash your hands and clean the work area.
2. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pot over medium heat. Soften the onion, then add garlic and ginger. Add the dried-off curry leaves and cinnamon carefully because they can splatter. Stir until fragrant.
3. Lower the heat. Stir in the curry powder, paprika, cayenne and black pepper just until aromatic; do not allow the powders to scorch. Add tomatoes and a splash of the measured water if the spices stick.
4. Add the chicken, green chile and salt. Turn the thighs to coat, then add the coconut milk, remaining measured water and vinegar. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook gently, turning the pieces occasionally and adding small splashes of water if the bottom threatens to dry.
5. Check every thigh with a food thermometer in the thickest flesh, away from the bone: all pieces must reach at least 165°F. Continue gentle cooking as needed until the meat is tender. Whole thighs take longer than small chopped pieces; sauce color is not a doneness test.
6. If the chicken is ready but the sauce is watery, transfer it to a clean plate and simmer the sauce uncovered to reduce. Return the chicken and its cooked juices. Taste only after it is safely cooked; adjust salt and add the optional sugar if wanted. Remove the cinnamon and whole chile before serving.