Seeni sambol: sweet, sour onion relish

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 1 pound yellow onions (weigh after peeling), thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral oil
• One 2-inch cinnamon stick
• 3 green cardamom pods, lightly cracked
• 2 whole cloves
• 8 fresh or frozen curry leaves, rinsed and thoroughly dried
• One 2-inch piece pandan leaf, rinsed and dried; optional
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes; reduce for less heat
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste
• 10 grams seedless tamarind pulp from a compressed block, not concentrated bottled extract
• 2 tablespoons warm water for the tamarind, plus small splashes for the pan if needed
• 2 teaspoons brown or white sugar, with more available for adjustment

Method

1. Soak the tamarind in the measured warm water until soft. Mash with a spoon, then press through a small strainer, discarding any seeds and tough fibers. Keep the thick extract.
2. Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium-low heat. Add cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. When fragrant, carefully add the dried-off curry leaves and optional pandan, using a splatter screen.
3. Add the onions, pepper flakes and turmeric. Stir to coat and cook uncovered, stirring regularly. When the onions have wilted, add the salt. Keep cooking until their released water has evaporated and they are soft and starting to brown.
4. Stir in the tamarind extract. Reduce the heat as needed and continue cooking until the onions are soft, glossy and cohesive. If the base sticks before the onions soften, loosen it with a small splash of water and scrape gently; do not let it turn black.
5. Add the sugar, taste, and adjust in small pinches for a balance of sweet, sour and hot. Cook away any loose liquid. Remove the cinnamon, cardamom pods, cloves and pandan before serving. Refrigerate leftovers promptly in a shallow container.