Wambatu Moju: Sri Lankan Eggplant Relish

Ingredients and method

Ingredients

• 1 pound slender Chinese or Japanese eggplant, cut into 2-by-1/2-inch batons
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• Neutral frying oil, enough for a 1/2-inch depth in a high-sided skillet, plus 1 tablespoon for the dressing
• 4 ounces shallots, peeled and thickly sliced
• 1 serrano chile, slit lengthwise; seed for less heat
• 1 teaspoon brown or black mustard seeds
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
• 8–10 curry leaves, fresh or thawed frozen, thoroughly dried
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne or pure ground red chile
• 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar labeled 5% acidity
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Method

1. Toss eggplant with 1/2 teaspoon salt and let stand for 20–30 minutes. Pat the pieces thoroughly dry, then coat with turmeric. Keep the prepared vegetables, utensils and draining tray away from the frying pan.
2. Heat 1/2 inch of oil in a high-sided heavy skillet to about 375°F, using a suitable frying thermometer. Fry the eggplant in uncrowded batches, turning carefully, until browned and tender all the way through. Lower the heat if it darkens before softening. Lift onto a rack over a tray. Never add water to the frying oil.
3. In a separate skillet, warm 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them begin to pop. Add shallots and serrano; cook until softened. Carefully add garlic, ginger and the dried curry leaves and stir until fragrant.
4. Lower the heat and stir in red pepper flakes and ground chile briefly. Add vinegar, sugar and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Simmer gently until the sugar dissolves and the dressing looks slightly glossy.
5. Fold the fried eggplant through the dressing with a broad spoon. Warm just until coated, keeping the batons as intact as possible. Taste a cooled piece and adjust salt, vinegar or sugar in small increments.
6. Serve a small portion with rice and curry. Refrigerate the remainder promptly in a shallow covered container; do not bottle for storage at room temperature.